The Beacon Message Board

When i start to peddle from a stationary position my chain has started slipping and coming off the front ring. I did remove a link to shorten the chain which is what started this problem so i put the link back but the problem still remains and if anything is now worse. This is my old raleigh bike with a 6 speed freewheel. I can't keep riding it as it is as it's too dangerous.

I've been searcing the web and have found a company that sells a 6 speed freewheel and chain and just wondered if anyone has heard of them or ordered from them and if so are they reliable.

I'm hoping a new chain and freewheel will fix the problem.

Company is :

http://www.freemanscycles.co.uk/product ... 0TY%20HG22

http://www.freemanscycles.co.uk/product ... &pname=Z50

Unfortunately, i am clueless on your chain problem...

I have come across the website before Neil, whilst surfing for various products, but i have not purchased from them. i wouldnt have any issues buying from them, but take note on the delivery - they only post to address where credit/debit card is registered, and will require a signature.

Damn, i didn't notice that. I wanted to have stuff delivered to a different address so that puts paid to ordering from them.

Neil - how about this? Haven't bought from SJS myself before but I believe they are okay. Seem to have more than one six-speed available too.

http://www.sjscycles.co.uk/product.asp?pf_id=17874

I had exactly the same problem with my commuting bike a while ago, bike shop man said it was worn chain and cogs, but advised to replace the chainring as well.

cheers

Thanks Graham. I have an old campag rear mech so wondering if i would be better going for a regina freewheel. Not sure what would be a good chain to go with that though.

Neil, would be worth 'Googling' - but I understood that if the slippage was at the chainring then the wear would be at the chainring also - so this will be the bit that needs most attention. If it were the cassette (or the freewheel in your case) that was the problem then the slippage would be at the back.

That said - if the chainrings are worn out it is likely that the rear sprockets would also need replacing - and the chain will be shot as well. They all tend to wear together - with rear sprockets lasting about half/one third of the time of chainrings (after all - they go round more!)

Neil,

Stop messing about.

Bring it into the shop and let us get it going again.

Neil,

Why don't you convert it to a single speed?

By converting; not only do you get that perfect chain line but you will have a bike that weighs 2/3 lbs less.
If you go down this route you will reep the benefits of a straight chainline which will increase the power transfer to the wheels and the the weight saving will mean you will fly up those hills. (Don't be tempted to fill your saddle bag with even more tools to compensate for the saving in weight or you may find you will have to push your bike up some hills).
Your frame has nice horizontal drop outs which are just perfect for moving the wheel back to tension the chain.
Why not go the whole hog and make it into a fixie?

I've tried moving the wheel further back but unfortunately no joy. I'm not a fan of fixed wheels so thats out. I'm just going to do the obvious for now and replace the chain and freewheel.

Even if the teeth on your chainring are worn to points, I can't see why that would cause the chain to derail. Derailment is normally a symptom of misalignment. Are any of the following possible?
Bent chainring (e.g. following a fall)
Misaligned front derailleur (e.g. following a knock or maintenance)
Extreme chain misalignment in top/bottom gear (e.g. following change of block or wheel)

If your chain or your chainring or your block are very worn, it's a good idea to change them anyway, but I can't see how any of those things will stop the chain dropping off the front ring ... unless maybe there is so much lateral play in the block that it's causing a sort of swish in the chain, which is then derailing it from the ring.

Does the bike have indexed 6-speed gearing? If it doesn't, why the search for an identical block?

George,

I've checked the front crank and the chainrings look fine. What i have noticed is that the chain does look rather slack and dosn't sit on the teeth of the small ring properly at the front. If i rotate the crank anti-clockwise i can see the chain lift up off the teeth slightly. Compare that to my trek where the chain is tight on the teeth and dosn't budge.

I could just try a new chain, it's just that from what i've read its suggested that replacing the cassette(freewheel) at the same time is a good idea even though i think it is probably ok. The gears are non indexed, i have levers on the down tube.

GrahamGamblin wrote:Haven't bought from SJS myself before but I believe they are okay.

Cannot fault SJS - i have bought many items from them including a frame, and most recently my new Thorn Audax! They have a vast, varying selection of kit, and the customer service whilst selecting the Thorn was excellent.

New chain, New Freewheel, New back wheel seeing as mine was rather old and problem sorted. Didn't order online in the end as a local shop had what i needed and fitted everything for me too.

Grr, problem not sorted. Bit of chain slippage today on way into work. Time to replace the chainrings as well me thinks.

i've posted another thread on chainrings - so might be worth you having a quick look.

Neil Compton wrote:Grr, problem not sorted. Bit of chain slippage today on way into work. Time to replace the chainrings as well me thinks.

I am glad you raised this issue, I am having similar difficulties as well.

I have an old campag mirage crank. Not sure if you can still get the chainrings.

What have you done to try and rectify your problem Phil?

Neil Compton wrote:I have an old campag mirage crank. Not sure if you can still get the chainrings.

The pitch of Campag rings has been the same on all non-compact models for about 20 years, Neil (135mm, off the top of my head), so any non-compact Campag or Campag-pattern rings will do -- they don't have to be Mirage. Personally, I think Campag-pattern TA rings are better value for money. However, I remain unconvinced that new chainrings will stop chain-jump (although, if the old ones are worn, they should improve the smoothness and efficiency of the power transmission).

Neil Compton wrote:What have you done to try and rectify your problem Phil?

I believe he's seen various shrinks, Neil ... but without any luck so far.

I'm running out of options though George, it's an annoying problem that only started recently when i messed with the chain. That has now been replaced along with freewheel. Don't know what else it could be. I'll try a new TA chainring and see what happens. The slippage only seems to occur when i have stopped or slowed right down and i apply pressure to get going again.

This is the one .?

http://www.sjscycles.co.uk/product.asp? ... rc=froogle

Yes, but they're nearly £5 cheaper from Ribble or Parker's. Ribble will also do you a Stronglight Campag-pattern ring for only £12. The Stronglight rings are definitely inferior and wear quicker than the TA rings or real Campag rings ... but at half the price of TA and a third of the price of Campag. The TA rings are just as good as Campag in my experience, but cheaper.

it's an annoying problem that only started recently when i messed with the chain.

From all that i've read on this it seems that drivetrain problems often start to manifest themselves after one part (e.g. chain) gets replaced. Reason being that as the parts all wear together they work effectively - however once you replace one part it highlights the problems with other, also worn, parts. I've just experienced exactly the same thing - although for me it is the jockey wheels (i think!) that need replacing....

John Sanderson wrote:
me it is the jockey wheels (i think!) that need replacing....

You are a saint! Never thought of that one.

Well after replacing the chain, freewheel, small front chainring and rear mech the bike is running great . Replaced head set too as that was knackered. Took it to bike shop in the end for them to do it. Didn't really cost much either so hopefully i will get a few more thousand miles on the clock before anything needs looking at again.

Always best to change chain and block/casette at the same time. Teeth on chain rings tend to get thinner and start to curve forwards with time.

Aye when i looked at the new chainring and compared it to the one i was replacing there was quite a difference.