Check you rims
Moderators: Philip Whiteman, Andy Terry
Check you rims
Just cleaned winter bike. Examined rear rim and noted little black spot -query hole. Small screwdriver investigation created much larger hole. Foil thin. 3000 miles 3rd winter. Clarkes brake pads from Halfords probably a mistake. There were nice roval wheels with stylish large flange hubs !
Last rim that went was a Mavic, similar mileage but that shattered, shedding aluminum shards and jammed the wheel 20 miles from home.
You cant be too careful.
Last rim that went was a Mavic, similar mileage but that shattered, shedding aluminum shards and jammed the wheel 20 miles from home.
You cant be too careful.
They weren't the snow tyre wheels Steve!
Ruth I think the cantilevers and Clarkes pads make a difference but the fancy Specialised wheels probably aren't that good. Where do you get your winter wheels? Were they ready made or custom build?
Anyone else got any advice on what to get next. Cheap wheels and throw them out every two years or are there better quality ones out there?
Ruth I think the cantilevers and Clarkes pads make a difference but the fancy Specialised wheels probably aren't that good. Where do you get your winter wheels? Were they ready made or custom build?
Anyone else got any advice on what to get next. Cheap wheels and throw them out every two years or are there better quality ones out there?
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Koolstop salmon pads seem to be much gentler on rims.
I wore Mavic open pro rims down to 1mm in 6,000 miles with standard pads then did another 1 or 2 thousand with hardly any further wear from salmons before I bottled out and replaced the wheels. I reckon if I'd have used salmons from the outset I'd still be using the same wheels now.
I wore Mavic open pro rims down to 1mm in 6,000 miles with standard pads then did another 1 or 2 thousand with hardly any further wear from salmons before I bottled out and replaced the wheels. I reckon if I'd have used salmons from the outset I'd still be using the same wheels now.
Eat cake before you're hungry
Crikey, and I was moaning that my Open Pro rear rim had gone after 8000 miles.
I have read that Shimano blocks are not recommend as they cause a lot of excessive rim wear?
Needless to say, I have just bought some new Open Pro CD rims, but I will be trying the SwissStop 'Green' blocks as they seem to get a good review.
I have read that Shimano blocks are not recommend as they cause a lot of excessive rim wear?
Needless to say, I have just bought some new Open Pro CD rims, but I will be trying the SwissStop 'Green' blocks as they seem to get a good review.
"You only need two tools: WD40 and duct tape. If it doesn't move and it should, use WD40. If it moves and it shouldn't, use duct tape"
They were hand-built wheels on Mavic Open Pro rims and they came from the shop which is now the Coventry Cycle Centre though I'm not sure it was called that at the time when I bought them.Dave Cox wrote:Ruth I think the cantilevers and Clarkes pads make a difference but the fancy Specialised wheels probably aren't that good. Where do you get your winter wheels? Were they ready made or custom build?
Ruth
On my winter bike, I have the very cheapest wheels in the Campag range (Kamsin? ... cost me about £90.) I've had them two years, and used them all year round, but with more miles in the winter. I don't record how many miles I do on each set of wheels, but I'd guess they've done about 3k. They are still dead true and don't look as though rim wear is going to be a problem any time soon. What's more they have a wear-monitor line, so you don't have to rely on poking them with a screwdriver to see how far the wear has progressed. I'm sure you can get much 'faster' and prettier wheels, but I think you'd have to look pretty hard for better value for money in an everyday training/winter wheel.