CAMPAG ULTRA TORQUE NOISE
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- Posts: 285
- Joined: 06 Jun 2010 15:47
- Real Name: Nic Vipond
- Location: Birmingham
CAMPAG ULTRA TORQUE NOISE
Would really appreciate some help.
During my last couple of rides the bike has developed a very annoying click which appears to come from the cranks only when riding out of the saddle.
I'm using Campag's Ultra Torque system which has probably done less than 2000 dry miles so I would hope the bearings still have plenty of life left in them. I've eliminated the obvious things such as dry/loose chain ring bolts, seat post, saddle rails etc. to no avail.
There are lengthy and complex threads on the net which don't appear to offer a definitive cure.
Anyone had similar problems ?
During my last couple of rides the bike has developed a very annoying click which appears to come from the cranks only when riding out of the saddle.
I'm using Campag's Ultra Torque system which has probably done less than 2000 dry miles so I would hope the bearings still have plenty of life left in them. I've eliminated the obvious things such as dry/loose chain ring bolts, seat post, saddle rails etc. to no avail.
There are lengthy and complex threads on the net which don't appear to offer a definitive cure.
Anyone had similar problems ?
Re: CAMPAG ULTRA TORQUE NOISE
Does that include greasing the pedal threads? Not trying to teach you to suck eggs but that solved a (non-campag) cranky click for me.Pedlo Mudguardo wrote:Would really appreciate some help.
I've eliminated the obvious things such as dry/loose chain ring bolts, seat post, saddle rails etc. to no avail.
Eat cake before you're hungry
Campag's literature says you mustn't grease the pedal threads. I have never paid any attention, and grease mine anyway (very lightly). This has not to he best of my knowledge resulted in any of the problems that Campag seek to prevent ... although I can't be sure, since I don't understand what those problems are. However, it has never prevented funny noises, either.
What about shoes/cleats? I'd suggest eliminating these as a possible cause too. You have my sympathy - my bike has just developed a new crank related tick, and I've not had chance to test it following initial regreasing and tightening of bolts. Any kind of a noise like that is so unspeakably annoying I can hardly bear to ride my bike
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- Joined: 06 Jun 2010 15:47
- Real Name: Nic Vipond
- Location: Birmingham
Unspeakably annoying for sure.
Pedals were first on my list, cleaned and greased but no joy. I've heard loose rear skewer and cassette lock-rings have been the culprit in the past with others having the same problem. I'll try those today but I've got a feeling the cranks will be removed completely by sundown .....
Perhaps the winter bike's summer sabbatical may have been premature.
Thanks for the suggestions.
Pedals were first on my list, cleaned and greased but no joy. I've heard loose rear skewer and cassette lock-rings have been the culprit in the past with others having the same problem. I'll try those today but I've got a feeling the cranks will be removed completely by sundown .....
Perhaps the winter bike's summer sabbatical may have been premature.
Thanks for the suggestions.
Lack of grease on the external bottom bracket threads, that can cause an annoying little creak on the pedal down stoke!
Mr Sheen polish on the shoe plates and liberally applied to the contact areas on the pedals is always recommended before a ride as well. Works much better than WD40 or GT85 thanks to the silicon content in it.
Sticking pawl in the freehub, strip and apply 3 in 1 oil, nothing any thicker though?
Q/Rs creaking on wheels, do up another 1/2 turn.
Seatpin or handlebars creaking, strip down and apply Ritchey Liquid Torque. Would recommend that this is used anyway all the time, especially on carbon fibre parts.
Check every single chain side plate, one may have a hair line crack in it, it does happen. Then clean and degrease the chain, then relube it. This can also have some effect getting rid of strange drive line noises too.
Mr Sheen polish on the shoe plates and liberally applied to the contact areas on the pedals is always recommended before a ride as well. Works much better than WD40 or GT85 thanks to the silicon content in it.
Sticking pawl in the freehub, strip and apply 3 in 1 oil, nothing any thicker though?
Q/Rs creaking on wheels, do up another 1/2 turn.
Seatpin or handlebars creaking, strip down and apply Ritchey Liquid Torque. Would recommend that this is used anyway all the time, especially on carbon fibre parts.
Check every single chain side plate, one may have a hair line crack in it, it does happen. Then clean and degrease the chain, then relube it. This can also have some effect getting rid of strange drive line noises too.
"You only need two tools: WD40 and duct tape. If it doesn't move and it should, use WD40. If it moves and it shouldn't, use duct tape"
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- Joined: 19 Jul 2010 23:07
- Real Name: Carl Williams
- Location: Stirchley
Hi Nic,
I've run UT for years and it's probably the bearings. There's usually only a seal on the drive side and the non-drive side goes rusty. Have you stripped it down yet? I was paying £25 from a local 'specialist' but they weren't fitting genuine bearings, or even using the correct tools. After they fitted an incorrect bearing that disintegrated in a week, I bought the Park tool to replace them myself. It's a 5 minute job. Try Ribble for bearings, I think they were under £20 for a pair with seals. I'm now running them with seals on both sides. Give me a call if you need it looking at, I've all the tools.
Carl
I've run UT for years and it's probably the bearings. There's usually only a seal on the drive side and the non-drive side goes rusty. Have you stripped it down yet? I was paying £25 from a local 'specialist' but they weren't fitting genuine bearings, or even using the correct tools. After they fitted an incorrect bearing that disintegrated in a week, I bought the Park tool to replace them myself. It's a 5 minute job. Try Ribble for bearings, I think they were under £20 for a pair with seals. I'm now running them with seals on both sides. Give me a call if you need it looking at, I've all the tools.
Carl
Why stand when you can sit, why sit when you can lie, why lie when you can sleep. Brian Robinson
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- Joined: 06 Jun 2010 15:47
- Real Name: Nic Vipond
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Thanks Carl.
I'd pretty much concluded the bearings were shot after eliminating everything else I could think of, I've been in denial because of their seemingly short lifespan. I was planning to strip and re-grease but may as well replace while I'm at it.
Waiting for delivery from Chain Reaction, £23.99 free p&p, hope the quality is good. (Ribble O/S)
I was thinking of asking Ben at Venture bikes to help me out but I know he's way busy - if you have time to guide me through I'd really appreciate it. No worries otherwise.
Thanks again,
Nic.
I'd pretty much concluded the bearings were shot after eliminating everything else I could think of, I've been in denial because of their seemingly short lifespan. I was planning to strip and re-grease but may as well replace while I'm at it.
Waiting for delivery from Chain Reaction, £23.99 free p&p, hope the quality is good. (Ribble O/S)
I was thinking of asking Ben at Venture bikes to help me out but I know he's way busy - if you have time to guide me through I'd really appreciate it. No worries otherwise.
Thanks again,
Nic.
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- Real Name: Carl Williams
- Location: Stirchley
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Only just noticed this post. I'll always turn you round nice and quick Nic, as you know i have the Campag bearing puller and torque wrenches and the Campag 10mm hex extension designed for untra-torgue if you still need it doing, plus i keep stock of genuine campag bearings.
"You break it, I'll fiix it" www.venturebikes.com
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Cheers Ben, Carl kindly helped me swap the bearings but the problem persists. I've changed pedals, wheels, seatposts, tightened, greased and tinkered with all and sundry but still the clicking continues when pedaling out of the saddle. I'm just hoping it's not a problem with the bonding of the frame. If you don't mind I'll drop the bike off on Thursday after my Wednesday evening ride - it would be great if you could take a look before I go insane !
It's good practice climbing everything in the saddle at least ....
cheers.
It's good practice climbing everything in the saddle at least ....
cheers.
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- Posts: 285
- Joined: 06 Jun 2010 15:47
- Real Name: Nic Vipond
- Location: Birmingham
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- Posts: 285
- Joined: 06 Jun 2010 15:47
- Real Name: Nic Vipond
- Location: Birmingham
Well I'll be mighty amazed. It was the bearings after all although not the ultra torque but the headset. Stripped, re-greased and I'm basking in the sound of silence. The amplification of carbon frames is sometimes bizarre.
Richard, I owe you a pint.
Thanks for all the suggestions, in particular Carl for giving up his time - very kind.
Richard, I owe you a pint.
Thanks for all the suggestions, in particular Carl for giving up his time - very kind.
Well thats very interesting isn't it?Pedlo Mudguardo wrote:Well I'll be mighty amazed. It was the bearings after all although not the ultra torque but the headset. Stripped, re-greased and I'm basking in the sound of silence. The amplification of carbon frames is sometimes bizarre.
Richard, I owe you a pint.
Thanks for all the suggestions, in particular Carl for giving up his time - very kind.
Just so that I can understand, when you say stripped down and regreased, what exactly have you greased?
Because all the headset bearing I have on my bikes are sealed and cannot therefore be greased, a bit like the modern bottom bracket bearing.
So if you too have sealed bearing and I'm thinking out loud here, but I'm guessing that the problem is more likely to be associated with laterial tension applied via the A-head than a greasing issue maybe?
Never the less, it very interesting even so, coz I have the exact same clicking noise on the left crank! So guess what I'll be doing this evening..........
"You only need two tools: WD40 and duct tape. If it doesn't move and it should, use WD40. If it moves and it shouldn't, use duct tape"
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- Posts: 285
- Joined: 06 Jun 2010 15:47
- Real Name: Nic Vipond
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Right then, operation, "Sort that Creak" started last night and yes I know that really you should do one thing at a time, but I was on a roll:-
1) Stripped and greased headset and all mating parts, inc inside of stem where bars slide over.
2) Greased stem carbon spacers and A-head cap.
3) Removed rear gear hanger and greased mating surfaces.
4) Removed seat post, cleaned and applied Ritchey Liquid Torque. (I think that this 'was' the problem)
5) Undid banded front mech and applied Ritchey Liquid Torque under it.
6) Stripped both wheel hubs and regreased the bearings.
7) Removed crank set and applied grease to shaft.
Its a brand new ceramic bottom bracket, so no need to touch that.
9) Removed and regreased pedal threads.
10) Greased under seatpost clamp and also clamp bolt threads
Sadly I cannot ride in to work this morning to see if all that has made any difference or not, but as soon as I get home its test time.
Hopefully it will be a creak free ride.
1) Stripped and greased headset and all mating parts, inc inside of stem where bars slide over.
2) Greased stem carbon spacers and A-head cap.
3) Removed rear gear hanger and greased mating surfaces.
4) Removed seat post, cleaned and applied Ritchey Liquid Torque. (I think that this 'was' the problem)
5) Undid banded front mech and applied Ritchey Liquid Torque under it.
6) Stripped both wheel hubs and regreased the bearings.
7) Removed crank set and applied grease to shaft.
Its a brand new ceramic bottom bracket, so no need to touch that.
9) Removed and regreased pedal threads.
10) Greased under seatpost clamp and also clamp bolt threads
Sadly I cannot ride in to work this morning to see if all that has made any difference or not, but as soon as I get home its test time.
Hopefully it will be a creak free ride.
"You only need two tools: WD40 and duct tape. If it doesn't move and it should, use WD40. If it moves and it shouldn't, use duct tape"
Well after doing all that, no flipping differance what so ever!
Tried differant pedals.......still there?
Stripped front chain rings and greased the chain ring bolts.......still there?
Then started the process all over again, but looking at it with some logic.
1) Only there when applying extra load, such as climbing?
2) No matter what gear combination, its still there?
3) But stopped when stood up?
4) Still there riding no handed?
So cutting this saga short, it turned out to be the f'ing saddle and the Ti saddle rails creaking within the main body of the saddle, which just happened to occur when the weight was shifted to the right hand side.
So I removed the saddle and stood it upright, applied 3:1 oil to gaps where the saddle rails enter the main saddle body and left it soaking overnight. Rotated saddle 24 hours later and repeated. Then lay saddle upside down and sprayed WD40 all over the base and again left to soak overnight.
Rode into work this morning, heard nothing but the birds singing......
Tried differant pedals.......still there?
Stripped front chain rings and greased the chain ring bolts.......still there?
Then started the process all over again, but looking at it with some logic.
1) Only there when applying extra load, such as climbing?
2) No matter what gear combination, its still there?
3) But stopped when stood up?
4) Still there riding no handed?
So cutting this saga short, it turned out to be the f'ing saddle and the Ti saddle rails creaking within the main body of the saddle, which just happened to occur when the weight was shifted to the right hand side.
So I removed the saddle and stood it upright, applied 3:1 oil to gaps where the saddle rails enter the main saddle body and left it soaking overnight. Rotated saddle 24 hours later and repeated. Then lay saddle upside down and sprayed WD40 all over the base and again left to soak overnight.
Rode into work this morning, heard nothing but the birds singing......
"You only need two tools: WD40 and duct tape. If it doesn't move and it should, use WD40. If it moves and it shouldn't, use duct tape"
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- Posts: 285
- Joined: 06 Jun 2010 15:47
- Real Name: Nic Vipond
- Location: Birmingham