Chains
Moderators: Philip Whiteman, Andy Terry
Chains
I've just checked my chain for wear with a Parks gauge and it is between 0.75 and1.0% worn/stretched.
When do people normally replace a chain; as soon as some elongation is seen, or wait until > 1.0%? As a new one will be far cheaper than a cassette and chainrings, I feel I shall replace asap. Just wondered what others do?
Also is there a huge difference in quality/strength/mass between an £18 and £50 chain? I use SRAM as find their powerlink coupling easy and simple to fit.
When do people normally replace a chain; as soon as some elongation is seen, or wait until > 1.0%? As a new one will be far cheaper than a cassette and chainrings, I feel I shall replace asap. Just wondered what others do?
Also is there a huge difference in quality/strength/mass between an £18 and £50 chain? I use SRAM as find their powerlink coupling easy and simple to fit.
Re: Chains
I use the same gauge, and I tend check my chain every other week. I take several spot 'readings' and as soon as I get one reading that indicates 0.75% wear, then I will monitor more carefully. As soon as I get one reading that shows 1.0% wear its replaced straight away.Clive wrote:I've just checked my chain for wear with a Parks gauge and it is between 0.75 and1.0% worn/stretched.
When do people normally replace a chain; as soon as some elongation is seen, or wait until > 1.0%? As a new one will be far cheaper than a cassette and chainrings, I feel I shall replace asap. Just wondered what others do?
Also is there a huge difference in quality/strength/mass between an £18 and £50 chain? I use SRAM as find their powerlink coupling easy and simple to fit.
As a rule of thumb, I will replace three chains and then on the fourth chain, replace the cassette as well.
As for expensive chains being worth the extra, to be honest I have never noticed an significant differance. The most I will spend is around the £20 mark.
What I can you tell though, and after extensive testing on a large amount of differing chain lubes, what makes a huge differance to the life expectancy of a chain is the type of lube that you use and how you look after your chain.
I use KMC Quick Links in all my chains, no matter what the make is.
"You only need two tools: WD40 and duct tape. If it doesn't move and it should, use WD40. If it moves and it shouldn't, use duct tape"
- Andy Terry
- Posts: 904
- Joined: 20 Nov 2006 14:27
- Real Name:
- Location: Bromsgrove, Worcs
Don't make my mistake and try and use a 10-speed SRAM powerlink with a 10-speed Shimano chain. The link goes on OK and works fine but you can't remove it (without a chain tool) to split the chain for cleaning. Have since read they are not supposed to be re-usable. Just ordered a KMC X10 and some quick links.
-
- Posts: 413
- Joined: 10 Oct 2009 13:12
- Real Name: Barry Evans
- Location: Birmingham
Re: Chains
Like Alan, on my current setup (10 speed 7800 Dura Ace compact) I get 3 or 4 chains of c. 2000 km each per cassette, depending on how well I've maintained it all. I often run the last chain for further, cos its all toast at the end.AlanW wrote: As a rule of thumb, I will replace three chains and then on the fourth chain, replace the cassette as well.
I have used 7800 chains (c/w fixing pins) and cassettes for the past 4 years, but the LBS recently fitted 7900 chain (c/w shimano quick link) + cassette (I was in a big rush). I have to say this doesnt seem to run as smooth through my 7800 rear and front mechs. But the quicklink should enable me to keep it cleaner, especially through winter.
Talking of which, anyone want a used (c. 8000 km) 12-27 DA (7800, 10 speed) cassette?
-
- Posts: 413
- Joined: 10 Oct 2009 13:12
- Real Name: Barry Evans
- Location: Birmingham
Re: Chains
Like Alan, on my current setup (10 speed 7800 Dura Ace compact) I get 3 or 4 chains of c. 2000 km each per cassette, depending on how well I've maintained it all. I often run the last chain for further, cos its all toast at the end.AlanW wrote: As a rule of thumb, I will replace three chains and then on the fourth chain, replace the cassette as well.
I have used 7800 chains (c/w fixing pins) and cassettes for the past 4 years, but the LBS recently fitted 7900 chain (c/w shimano quick link) + cassette (I was in a big rush). I have to say this doesnt seem to run as smooth through my 7800 rear and front mechs. But the quicklink should enable me to keep it cleaner, especially through winter.
Talking of which, anyone want a used (c. 8000 km) 12-27 DA (7800, 10 speed) cassette?
- Neil Compton
- Posts: 256
- Joined: 19 Nov 2006 15:39
- Real Name:
- Location: Northfield
Wear to the sprocket, and indeed the chainwheel, increases as the chain wears. So, if you take a 3000 mile old chain off and replace it with a brand new one the new chain may perform worse than the old one which the sprockets had worn in with unless you also replace the relatively expensive cassette. Assuming you change your cassette every two chains, by rotating, your outgoing chain is only ever 1000 older than its replacement so will be better matched to level of wear on the cassette .Clive wrote:Why do you use more than one and rotate chains?
Actually, I expect to get 3 chain lives (9000 miles) out of a cassette so it would be optimal for me to rotate 3 chains but I only have one jar of white spirits and, if I had two, I'd forget which was which. So, I rotate two and then, if a third chain works OK to begin with, I'll carry on using that until it all gets gnarly (hopefully another 3000) and then replace the cassette and start all over again.
Eat cake before you're hungry
Just out of interest Neil, are using a 10sp set up?Neil Compton wrote:Bit like George but when the chain starts to slip. Since joining the club i've done over 20,000 miles on 2 different bikes and i've only had to change the chain once on either bike. When i had the chains replaced i also had new cassettes.
"You only need two tools: WD40 and duct tape. If it doesn't move and it should, use WD40. If it moves and it shouldn't, use duct tape"
- Neil Compton
- Posts: 256
- Joined: 19 Nov 2006 15:39
- Real Name:
- Location: Northfield
That would explain why you can leave your chain on for so long then. As brilliant as 10 speed set ups are, and I would not change mine for the world, but a consequence is that because the chain is that much smaller it will deteriorate quicker.Neil Compton wrote:My Trek which i only tend to ride when it's dry has an 8 speed cassette and my Raleigh which i ride to work on and in wet weather has a 6 speed cassette.
Also the working tolerances on the 10 speed set up are really close, and even the slightest amount of wear, chain or cassette, will result in really poor gear changing.
Which is why in most instances if you get 1500 miles from a 10 speed chain, then you should be very pleased!
"You only need two tools: WD40 and duct tape. If it doesn't move and it should, use WD40. If it moves and it shouldn't, use duct tape"
- Neil Compton
- Posts: 256
- Joined: 19 Nov 2006 15:39
- Real Name:
- Location: Northfield
-
- Posts: 413
- Joined: 10 Oct 2009 13:12
- Real Name: Barry Evans
- Location: Birmingham
- Neil Compton
- Posts: 256
- Joined: 19 Nov 2006 15:39
- Real Name:
- Location: Northfield
I'm surprised. For several years, I've used BBB Campag-pattern sprockets and KMC chains (I'm a tight barsteward). I have 9 speed on 2 road bikes and 10 on a third. The 10 gets much less use than the others and has only been running its current set-up for a couple of years. So can't yet say whether the 10sp chain does or doesn't last as long as the 9sp, but it's already done more than 2k km and isn't yet showing any significant signs of wear.slogfester wrote:BIG difference between 9 and 10 speed. I used to get 5000 km per chain out of my Ultegra 9 speed. Now 2000 km from Dura Ace 10 speed.
Even with 10 speed, I'd be disappointed (and broke) if I only got 1500 miles out of a chain. I thought I was being extravagant replacing them at 3000. I only use £14 KMC chains though so maybe it's not a fair comparison with Ultegra or Dura Ace. What's ironic is as you pay twice the price for a chain you find it lasts half as long so you actually pay 4x as much - to save a few grams?
Eat cake before you're hungry
- John Sanderson
- Posts: 114
- Joined: 27 Nov 2006 21:35
- Real Name:
- Location: Colchester, Essex
It all depends on how you wish to view it really Neil, and it was same argument when 6 speed came out to replace the 5 speed, 7 speed to 8 speed etc etc etcNeil Compton wrote:Yer but do you feel any noticeable difference when riding a different speed bike? Thats the question i'm asking because i feel if a chains life and strength is drastically reduced just for an extra gear or two then is it really worth going to 10 speed.
Its also fair to add that I am very disappointed with how quickly the chains wear. But I also think that the main reason for this is poor chain alignment, ie using 39 at the front and a 12 sprocket at the rear. Chains are designed to run in a straight line, not curved like the above example will.
But despite the poor wear factor, I do like 10 speed as that one extra sprocket gives me exactly the ratio that I like, with only one tooth increments.
So if you are more than happy with what you have, then don't change.
"You only need two tools: WD40 and duct tape. If it doesn't move and it should, use WD40. If it moves and it shouldn't, use duct tape"
-
- Posts: 413
- Joined: 10 Oct 2009 13:12
- Real Name: Barry Evans
- Location: Birmingham
I should have added that I am running a compact chainset (50/34) which -I am told- significantly decreases chain life. Moreover, I also have a 27 granny (as part of a 27-12 cassette) which again doesnt help things, but I never ever run 27 to 50 or 12 to 34.
I dont feel the need for any more gears, but I sometimes wish (mainly when I'm in the final sprint of the Sat morning chain gang from Speeds Bromsgrove which is a fast downhill finish) I had a bigger top gear. Hence I could (in my mind) justify moving to the 7900 Dura Ace that can handle a greater spread, e.g. 28-11.
I dont feel the need for any more gears, but I sometimes wish (mainly when I'm in the final sprint of the Sat morning chain gang from Speeds Bromsgrove which is a fast downhill finish) I had a bigger top gear. Hence I could (in my mind) justify moving to the 7900 Dura Ace that can handle a greater spread, e.g. 28-11.