Frame finish options
Moderator: Andy Terry
Frame finish options
As much as I love my Rourkie frame, the urge for a more durable frame is making me contemplate some other possible options.
It’s been four years since I last had it resprayed due to accidently damage (long story) but after the weekends audax on some pretty shitty lanes, the frame has taken on board even more nasty stone chips. Plus, I have also noticed that since going to an 11sp group set, the cable entry point for the front mech is now much closer to the frame. Therefore the cable is constantly rubbing/fretting against the bottom bracket shell even though there are cable guides brazed underneath the frame, they are not long enough to match the cable angle at the exit point. So this will need to be addressed sooner rather than later, ideally it needs a twin plastic cable guide screwing under the bb shell to space the cable out, but this isn’t possible with the brazed tubular cable guides that are already there.
So with that in mind, I see that I have three options:
Option one: have the rear triangle chromed on my 853, then a more basic colour scheme on the remainder of the frame, plus a modification to improve the gear cable routing under the bottom bracket.
Option two: partial self-colour 953 Rourkie frame, then paint work as above.
Option three: an off the shelf Ti frame such as the Engima Evoke
With options two and three it then opens up other questions, should I then opt for hydraulic discs and even go down the Di2 as well? This could to be a very expensive option to say the least!! Of course option one is the cheapest option, as I guesstimate that £500 would cover the cost of everything that I want doing.
BUT, going forward I think that a self-colour Ti frame would undoubtingly be more durable long term and not have to worry about getting the paintwork damaged with stone chips and café damage etc.
It’s been four years since I last had it resprayed due to accidently damage (long story) but after the weekends audax on some pretty shitty lanes, the frame has taken on board even more nasty stone chips. Plus, I have also noticed that since going to an 11sp group set, the cable entry point for the front mech is now much closer to the frame. Therefore the cable is constantly rubbing/fretting against the bottom bracket shell even though there are cable guides brazed underneath the frame, they are not long enough to match the cable angle at the exit point. So this will need to be addressed sooner rather than later, ideally it needs a twin plastic cable guide screwing under the bb shell to space the cable out, but this isn’t possible with the brazed tubular cable guides that are already there.
So with that in mind, I see that I have three options:
Option one: have the rear triangle chromed on my 853, then a more basic colour scheme on the remainder of the frame, plus a modification to improve the gear cable routing under the bottom bracket.
Option two: partial self-colour 953 Rourkie frame, then paint work as above.
Option three: an off the shelf Ti frame such as the Engima Evoke
With options two and three it then opens up other questions, should I then opt for hydraulic discs and even go down the Di2 as well? This could to be a very expensive option to say the least!! Of course option one is the cheapest option, as I guesstimate that £500 would cover the cost of everything that I want doing.
BUT, going forward I think that a self-colour Ti frame would undoubtingly be more durable long term and not have to worry about getting the paintwork damaged with stone chips and café damage etc.
"You only need two tools: WD40 and duct tape. If it doesn't move and it should, use WD40. If it moves and it shouldn't, use duct tape"
Re: Frame finish options
Alan, often it's possible to fix such problems simply by having a loose piece of outer cable after the guide under the shell.AlanW wrote:Plus, I have also noticed that since going to an 11sp group set, the cable entry point for the front mech is now much closer to the frame. Therefore the cable is constantly rubbing/fretting against the bottom bracket shell even though there are cable guides brazed underneath the frame, they are not long enough to match the cable angle at the exit point.
Re: Frame finish options
Yes, I looked at doing that George, but the end of the tubular brazed on cable guide is really close to the tightest part of the sharpest part of the curve. Ideally, it needs the end of the outer cable cutting at 45 degrees to allow for the curve, but this hasn't proved to be very successful.George wrote: Alan, often it's possible to fix such problems simply by having a loose piece of outer cable after the guide under the shell.
The other option is to reduce the length of the tubular guide to allow for the outer cable to go further around the curve of the shell. But that's an small angle grinder or a Dremel job.
"You only need two tools: WD40 and duct tape. If it doesn't move and it should, use WD40. If it moves and it shouldn't, use duct tape"
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Even Ti, depending upon the nature of laminate or polish, can become grazed and loose its gloss. Thanks to advice from Dave Cox, a very light application of baby oil helps to regain its gloss.Andy Terry wrote:Ti
However, I will second Andy's suggestion that Ti is less problematic than painted finishes.
That's just confirmed what I already thought about Ti frames, cheers.
Still not 100% convinced about going down the hydraulic brake route, weight and cost. BUT, I can of course see the major benefit with never having to replace a pair of rims again!
Still not 100% convinced about going down the hydraulic brake route, weight and cost. BUT, I can of course see the major benefit with never having to replace a pair of rims again!
"You only need two tools: WD40 and duct tape. If it doesn't move and it should, use WD40. If it moves and it shouldn't, use duct tape"
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Funny, but I actually rang Brian Rourke yesterday and enquired about such a finish. While in principle yes it was possible, it would come at a cost but the actual cost was not very forth coming to be honest.Andy Terry wrote:What about unpainted 953 stainless steel?
But I'm going to the UK Handmade Bicycle Show in Bristol on Friday April 15th, and all the UK major frame builders are exhibiting. So it should be an interesting few hours.
More info HERE
If anyone wishes to join me you are more than welcome
"You only need two tools: WD40 and duct tape. If it doesn't move and it should, use WD40. If it moves and it shouldn't, use duct tape"
Natural finish or unpainted but polished or even bead blasted titanium tubing.CakeStop wrote:What is "self-colour Ti" ?
Such as THIS thing of beauty
"You only need two tools: WD40 and duct tape. If it doesn't move and it should, use WD40. If it moves and it shouldn't, use duct tape"
Ah, I was worried about the reference to colour. As Gary points out the brushed effect is easy to maintain, if you get a scratch or any rubbing causes a shiny spot. Maybe a Scotchbrite pad rather than Brillo though. You just need to avoid etched (or whatever) graphics.
Expect a soft ride, plenty of flex in the rear end. Not everybody's cup of tea but I'm guessing with your love of steel you'll be OK with that.
Expect a soft ride, plenty of flex in the rear end. Not everybody's cup of tea but I'm guessing with your love of steel you'll be OK with that.
Eat cake before you're hungry
That's an interesting comment Steve, and as I've not ridden a Ti framed bike as yet I wouldn't know. But that's certainly not how I would describe the ride on my Reynolds 853 frame, so it will be interesting to compare the two ride characteristics back to back.CakeStop wrote: Expect a soft ride, plenty of flex in the rear end. Not everybody's cup of tea but I'm guessing with your love of steel you'll be OK with that.
"You only need two tools: WD40 and duct tape. If it doesn't move and it should, use WD40. If it moves and it shouldn't, use duct tape"
To be fair, I get very little flex in my Ti frame, far less than I ever got in the Roubaix i had before and a lot less than my kinesis 4S winter frame.
My rear seat-stays are straight though, so like any material it will depend on how it used.
I just love the sound it makes as you ride along.
My rear seat-stays are straight though, so like any material it will depend on how it used.
I just love the sound it makes as you ride along.
Nothing compares with the simple pleasure of a bike ride!
Looks like the Enigmas have straight stays so maybe not as soft a rear end as I'm used to.
As Gary points out frame builders can vary stiffness to some extent with any material but with a stock frame you don't get to specify what you want so it's useful to be pre-warned to you have it in mind on a test ride.
As Gary points out frame builders can vary stiffness to some extent with any material but with a stock frame you don't get to specify what you want so it's useful to be pre-warned to you have it in mind on a test ride.
Eat cake before you're hungry
My tI frame still looks as good as the day I got it after nearly two years , although strictly speaking the champagne colour is not self coloured as it is an electrical colouring process similar to anodising but with out the die . Champagne is the easiest colour to obtain. If I was getting a tI bike tomorrow I would probably go disk , but on the other hand we need to hold something back for the next project.